Buying & Selling

Buying a Home with a Private Well: Complete Checklist

A private well is infrastructure you will own and maintain. Before you close, know what you’re getting. This checklist covers everything from water quality to pump age, water rights, and treatment systems.

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Before You Make an Offer

  • ☐ Ask the seller for the most recent water quality test results
  • ☐ Ask for the well drilling log / well completion report (required to be filed with the state in most states; available from county records or the state well database)
  • ☐ Find out the well depth and the type of well (drilled, dug, bored, or driven)
  • ☐ Ask when the pump was last replaced (pump lifespan: typically 10–15 years)
  • ☐ Ask about any history of water quality issues, treatment systems installed, or well repairs
  • ☐ If the property is on shared well, request a copy of the shared well agreement

During the Inspection Period

  • ☐ Order a water quality test from a state-certified lab — even if the seller provides recent results, order your own independent test (find a lab)
  • ☐ Schedule a well inspection by a licensed well contractor (separate from the general home inspector)
  • ☐ Have the inspector check: wellhead condition, casing, seal, vent, and electrical connections
  • ☐ Ask the inspector to measure pump flow rate and pressure tank performance
  • ☐ Inspect the area within 100 feet of the well for contamination risks: septic tank, drain field, fuel storage, fertilizer storage, animal enclosures
  • ☐ Check the well log for depth—a deeper well generally draws from a more protected aquifer
  • ☐ If the home has a water treatment system, ask for documentation of what it treats and its service history
  • ☐ If the home has a water softener, ask for the last salt refill date and brine tank inspection
  • ☐ Ask about water rights (in the western U.S., water rights are property rights—confirm they transfer with the sale)

Interpreting Your Water Test Results

  • ☐ Use our free test result interpreter to check every parameter against EPA standards
  • ☐ If bacteria are present: negotiate remediation before closing; do not waive
  • ☐ If nitrates exceed 10 mg/L: do not make formula with this water; negotiate a treatment system or remediation
  • ☐ If arsenic is above the MCL: consult a water treatment specialist; a reverse osmosis system is the typical solution
  • ☐ If pH is below 6.5: expect acid corrosion on copper pipes; get a plumbing inspection and consider an acid neutralizer
  • ☐ If lead is above 0.015 mg/L: have plumbing inspected; consider NSF-53 point-of-use filter

Negotiate These Before Closing

  • ☐ Any failed water quality parameters should be remediated and re-tested before closing
  • ☐ An aging pump (over 12 years old) is a negotiating point — ask for a credit or replacement
  • ☐ A pressure tank showing waterlogging (short cycling of the pump) should be replaced or credited
  • ☐ Document all disclosures in writing — if the seller discloses past bacterial issues, get the remediation documentation in writing

At Closing and After

  • ☐ Obtain all well records: drilling log, pump installation records, water test history, treatment system documentation
  • ☐ Register as the new property owner with your state’s well database (if applicable)
  • ☐ Locate your well on the property and clearly mark it
  • ☐ Add well inspection to your first-year maintenance calendar
  • ☐ Schedule your first annual water test within 60 days of moving in (establish your own baseline)
  • ☐ Note the pump installation date and set a calendar reminder for pump inspection at year 10
  • ☐ Keep a physical folder of all well documents for the life of your ownership

💡 Don’t Skip the Independent Test

Even if the seller provides recent passing test results, conduct your own independent test from a certified lab. The seller’s test was conducted for their purposes (the previous sale, or routine monitoring). Your test is for you—and it establishes your baseline for every future annual comparison.

How much does a professional well inspection cost?
A professional well inspection by a licensed well contractor (separate from a general home inspector) typically costs $150–$500 depending on what’s included. A basic visual inspection and flow rate test is at the lower end. A comprehensive inspection including pump performance testing, electrical checks, and camera inspection of the casing can run $300–$500+. It is money extremely well spent compared to the cost of pump replacement ($1,500–$5,000) or a new well ($5,000–$20,000+).
The general home inspector said the well looks fine — do I still need a well specialist?
General home inspectors are not well specialists. Most carry minimal liability for well-related findings and are not licensed to make pump performance or casing condition assessments beyond a visual check. A licensed well driller or pump contractor has the equipment (flow meters, electrical testing tools, camera systems) and licensing to give you a complete picture. In a few hundred dollars at inspection, this is one of the highest-value due-diligence steps you can take.
Disclaimer This checklist is for informational purposes. Specific loan requirements and state laws vary. Consult a licensed well contractor, your loan officer, and a real estate attorney for advice specific to your transaction.